If you’re pottering about and see a sign that says Untere Stinkensee, it takes a lot of self-control not to go and have a look – and I don’t have that much restraint. That’s how I ended up next to a dry lake, wondering if perhaps some elephants might wander by. In fact, I have discovered that there are actually two Stinkensees, the Oberere and the Untere, which translates (roughly) as Upper and Lower Smelly Lake. And you thought the British were the only people with daft names for places, like Shepherd's Bottom, Batchelor's Bump, Great Snoring and so on… The Smelly Lakes are to be found in a corner of Austria called Burgenland, which is a narrow region along the Hungarian border,...
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